![]() not a square hole in the middle of the sheet) take it to a local shop with a shear and pay some cash money for the service - you'll be miles ahead with respect to quality of the cut. If you're trying to cut straight lines along a free edge (i.e. It's a significant upgrade from abrasives such as a cut-off disc or hand-grinder. In fact, stainless is the sole reason I bought it. Are you trying to cut a straight line, or curved lines? Stainless and bandsaws just don't get along. ![]() I do a lot of stainless work for motorcycle exhausts. They do show up on the used market now and then.Ī bandsaw would really be my last choice. These are expensive but are perfect for certain jobs. The coolest way to make smaller scale profile cuts in quantity is with a Hect profile cutter (Trace-A-Punch) and a 1/16" plastic template. Protect sheet surfaces before knocking off the dross. The dross can be knocked off with a flat piece of steel. I've only cut copper, aluminum, and brass with it.įor large complex shapes I like to use my plasma cutter with 1/4" plywood patterns (cut on a scroll saw). I haven't tried my nibbler out on stainless. If you need to get tighter curves you could make them on something like an oscillating drum sander or possibly with a handheld electric nibbler. Shearing will keep the metal flat and undistorted. For more flowing shapes I'd use a throatless shear like a Beverly (in-line blades) or an old Matshalltown (rotary blades) that I have. I would prefer to cut the metal by shear.
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